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All about planting ( seeds vs. bulbs )
Various trials have shown that Baerlauch can be planted right into the first frost. But a gardener should not expect to harvest a bumper crop of Baerlauch leafes the first year after planting, Wild Garlic performs just about the same as a common flower bulb - a full bloom can only be archieved two years after planting. The environment, the condition and nutritional properties of the available soil will make a big difference.

In order to cultivate Baerlauch in your own garden, and in order to achieve the best results, one needs a moist humus soil which is not too heavy. A prime location would be a rich forest floor close to a small creek. Baerlauch prefers to grow in full or half shade, protected by trees, walls or shrubs. I even had success cultivating Baerlauch on the edge of coniferous trees ( see the pictures on the Start Page ). Baerlauch roots will even find their way through rocky or slate grounds, however, the plant does not do wwell at all in heavy clay or pure sandy soil.

A hobby gardener may even cultivate Baerlauch outdoors in large flower pots as long as there is enough depth for the bulb to grow downward when the cold weather approaches. Some inventive people successfully resorted to 5 gallon plastic pails. However, when using any pail, it is imperative to drill water drain holes around the bottom of the side wall ( 1- 2 cm  above the lower edge ).
When spring arrives and the trees are still without leafs, the first warm rays of the sun trigger the growth in a Baerlauch plant. The bulb starts to produce an about  2 cm long leaf stem which breaks through the surface of the ground and develops into a dark green, oblong and pointed leaf. Already at this stage, the young leafs, particularly when crushed, emit the characteristic Garlic fragrance. By this time the surrounding trees or shrubs also have leafed out and provide the necessary shade for the heat sensitive Baerlauch plants. During the month of March and April it is time to harvest leafs. ( Please, don't forget to harness your enthusiasm this first spring after planting : The plants need leafs in order to grow the seeds needed for further propagation. Obey this fact and the next harvest season will reward you !) About four weeks later the Baerlauch starts to bloom. From now on it is not advisable anymore to harvest leafs. White, star shaped blossoms cover the Baerlauch area like a carped. When the bloom stops the resulting seed cluster carries green, soft seeds : A treat for any connoisseur who appreciates garlic flavoured Caviar. Later on in the season the soft green seeds turn black and hard, the ripe seed cluster yellows, the stem sinks to the ground spilling the seeds. With the oncoming cooler fall weather Baerlauch leafs turn yellow and brown, wither and finally fall to the ground where they rot and provide the necessary nutrients for next year's growth.
Some dedicated gardeners prefer to cultivate Baerlauch directly from seed. In spite of all the work ( i.e. regular watering over an extended period of time ), there is no guarantee of success. Others, being more practical, choose to plant bulbs because this method works exceptionally well.
How to plant bulbs :
Position a Baerlauch bulb ( vertically and root end down ) into a 10 - 15 cm hole, cover the hole with soil and  keep the area moist until the month of October. Also, the following spring one can aid the growth of the plant by some additional watering.

° Not enough space ?
° No garden ?
° Frost already ?
................................. a 5 gallon pail is the answer !!
English translation by " Nature boy  Peter Dumlich Canada " (C) 2011
Family - Devriel
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well planted in Canada (BC)